The Grand Tour and Beyond: Collectors & Travellers in Venice from the seventeenth to the twentieth centuries
Since the Middle Ages, Venice has been a magnet for travellers: from pilgrims en route to the Holy Land to eighteenth-century grand tourists making their cultural pilgrimage to Italy, who were drawn to the city by the carnival, the opera, the art collections, the beautiful courtesans and Venice’s reputation for pleasure. There the visiting milordi would sit for their portraits with the Venetian pastellist Rosalba Carriera, their carnival masks perched rakishly on their tricorn hats and commission view paintings from Canaletto as souvenirs to decorate their houses, while the Venetian aristocrats themselves provided munificent patronage to artists like Tiepolo. Despite the declining fortunes and fall of the Venetian Republic at the end of the eighteenth century, Venice continued to attract nineteenth-century visitors, notably Byron, Ruskin, Dickens and Wagner. In the aftermath of the American Civil War, an increasing number of Americans made a Grand Tour to Europe travelling by trains and transatlantic liners, notably Isabella Stewart Gardner who rented the Palazzo Barbaro during the 1890s providing hospitality and patronage for writers like Henry James and artists like Sargent. This tradition was continued in the twentieth century by Peggy Guggenheim who became a very important patron and collector of the modern movement and American writers such as the hard-drinking Hemingway, who mixed cocktails in Harry’s Bar.
This two-day itinerary enables you to follow in the footsteps of some of the famous travellers, collectors and writers who have visited Venice in the last two hundred years to experience some of the sights that they saw, while reading or listening to their accounts on the Colnaghi Foundation’s The Grand Tour in Venice microsite. But the itinerary is not just the story of foreign travellers to Venice: it also includes visits to some of the private museum collections formed by Venetians such as Teodoro Correr (now the Museo Correr), Count Giovanni Querini (Museo Querini-Stampaglia) and Baron Franchetti (Ca’ d’Oro) which are among the less-well known treasures of Venice.
Themes include: Venice in the Age of the Grand Tour; Nineteenth-century British visitors to Venice; Venetian treasure houses: private collections and palazzi in Venice; Peggy Guggenheim and her collection in Venice’s famous “unfinished palazzo”.
VENICE IN THE AGE OF THE GRAND TOUR
Venice’s museum of the eighteenth-century, housed in a splendid palazzo with magnificent furniture and paintings providing vivid glimpses of eighteenth-century life. To see:
Paintings by Pietro Longhi (The Rhinoceros, The Artists Studio)
Francesco Guardi – Parlatorio of Nuns and Ridotto
Canaletto - two views of Venice (his only vedute that are on public view in Venice)
Giambattista Tiepolo- Ceiling paintings of Allegory of Merit, Strength and Wisdom and Allegory of the Marriage of Ludovico Rezzonico
Giandomenico Tiepolo-Il Mondo Nuovo, Pulcinella in Love, Rinaldo and Armida, Promenade a Trois, from the Villa di Zianigo
Gianantonio Guardi - room of frescoes
Rosalba Carriera-Room of Pastel Portraits
Furniture by Andrea Bristolon and Antonio Corradini
Nineteenth-century views of Venice by Ippolito Caffi and Antonio Mancini (from the Egidio Martini collection)
18th century Pharmacy and laboratory
Mestrovich Collection (Cima da Conegliano - Ecce Homo, Bonifacio Veronese - Madonna and child, Francesca Guardi - Madonna and child)
Browning rooms (apartment occupied by the famours poet)
Based on the private collection of Teodoro Correr (1750-1830) who collected works of art illustrating Venetian history. The collection was originally housed in Correr’s palazzo on the Grand Canal which was opened to the public in 1836 before being moved to the present site in the former apartments of Napoleon in 1922. Contains rooms devoted to Venetian festivals and ceremonies (such as the Doge’s marriage of the sea) as well as some very important Renaissance and baroque works of art and neoclassical masterpieces by Canova.
Formal hats worn by the Doges
Gentile Bellini - Doge Giovanni Moncenigo
Display commemorating the Bucintoro (room 45)
Paintings of Venetian festivals that grand tourists would of seen (rooms 46 - 53)
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
The Stampalia were among the richest and oldest families in Venice. In 1869 Count Giovanni Querini, the last of his line, bequeathed his collection to the City of Venice. Contains an important collection of paintings by Pietro Longhi and Giovanni Bella which record aspects of eighteenth-century life and the Grand Tour.
Thirty genres scenes by Pietro Longhi, notably, The Geography Lesson
Paintings of Venetian festivals by Gabriele Bella, including The Women’s Regatta
GiambattistaTiepolo - Portrait of Procurator Daniele Dolfin
The former home of ambassadors and collectors Domenico and Giovanni Grimani, this beautiful palazzo, which has now been reopened to the public boasted an important collection of classical sculpture which will be on view during the time of the 2019 Biennale.
Frescoes by Giovanni da Udine and Francesco Salviati
VENICE IN THE NINETEENTH AND TWENTIETH CENTURIES
This jewel of Gothic architecture inspired both John Ruskin (Stones of Venice) and Isabella Stewart Gardner (the balconies of courtyard of the Isabella Stewart Gardner museum, Boston). It also houses the important collection of Baron Franchetti, who restored the palace in 1894 and opened to the public in 1916).
A magnificent Renaissance Palace designed by Longhena which houses Venice’s Modern art museum and collection of oriental art.
Ippolito Caffi - Snow and Fog on the Grand Canal; Fair on the Quayside near San Marco
Luigi Nono - Abandonati
Giuseppe Signorini - Asylum Interior; November
Giuseppe De Nittis - Portrait of a Lady
Works exhibited at the Venice Biennale Exhibitions (1895-1930s)
Gustave Klimt - Salome
Marc Chagall - The Rabbi
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Housed in Venice’s famous “unfinished palazzo” this houses the very important collection of twentieth-century art put together by the American collector Peggy Guggenheim
Pablo Picasso -The Poet, The Studio
Georges Braque - The Clarinet
Fernand Leger -Men in the City
Umberto Boccione - Dynamism of a Speeding Horse; Houses
Georgio De Chirico - The Red Tower
Wassily Kandinksy -Landscape with a Red Spot
Paul Klee - Magic Garden
Salvador Dali - Birth of Liquid Desires
Jackson Pollock - Moon Woman